A sensational best-seller put this Georgia port on the tourist map. But there are more reasons to visit.

The spell of “The Book,” as residents call it, is still strong in Savannah, Ga.

John Berendt’s “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” became a phenomenal best-seller in 1994. Readers were captivated by his true-life accounts of a murder, scandal, voodoo and colorful local characters such as drag queen Lady Chablis.
Soon, book fans and the curious flocked to this Georgia port city, see king out homes, cemeteries, nightclubs and other sites mentioned in the book. Tourism skyrocketed.

“Before 1994, Savannah had 3 million visitors a year. In 1996, there were 10 million — an all-time, record-breaking, unbelievable high,” said Erica Backus, public relations director of the Savannah Area Convention and Visitors Bureau. (Part of the surge, she said, also was spurred by yachting events linked to Atlanta’s Summer Olympic Games of that year.)
Today, visitors still can take “Midnight”-themed tours. Throughout the city, you’ll see many reminders of the book, from souvenir coffee mugs and T-shirts to postcard images, such as the cemetery statue called “Bird Girl” that’s displayed on the book’s cover.

“Midnight” mania has eased up somewhat since then. But tourism remains high because there’s a lot to see and do in this elegant city of 129,000 at the mouth of the Savannah River, just below South Carolina.

Like a checkerboard

Many visitors head to Savannah’s historic district, one of our nation’s largest and a National Historic Landmark. It looks like a storybook come to life.

The 2 1/2-square-mile area was laid out in a checkerboard grid by founder Gen. James Oglethorpe in 1733. The grid is defined by 21 parklike squares along major north-south streets. They are filled with flowers, shrubbery, magnolia trees and huge live oaks, dripping with silvery-green Spanish moss.

Each square is anchored by a monument celebrating a historic figure; there are sidewalks and benches where you can relax in the shade. The squares make the area more pedestrian friendly by slowing auto traffic.

Surrounding the squares are mansions, brick or stuccoed town houses, churches and other well-preserved buildings that survived the Revolution, Civil War and the wrecking balls of so-called progress in the 20th century. Some restored homes have been turned into museums that allow visitors a glimpse at the bygone splendors of Georgia’s antebellum era.

Adding to the district’s charm are a gold-domed city hall and sidewalks of brick, cobblestone or “tabby,” a concretelike mixture of lime, sand and oyster shells. There also are enough wrought-iron fences, balconies and railings to rival those of New Orleans.

Gentility and quirks

Visitors also savor the region’s “Lowcountry” cuisine, Southern graciousness and a slower pace of life that can take some getting used to by Northerners used to brusqueness and rushing.
“It’s cool. I just like the laid-back Southern hospitality,” said Paul Corbin, who relocated to Savannah from Tampa, Fla., in 1988. “People will bend over backwards for you. There’s kindness here.”

That’s not to say it’s utopia. Local newspapers cite reports of street crime — some violent. But the historic district seemed to be in a safety bubble when I visited.

I explored the area with friends during a week in early November. We spent much of our time on foot — or “riding shank’s mare” in the local vernacular — and felt completely comfortable and safe while walking at all times, including late evenings.

It was my first trip to Savannah, which had a high spot on my list of must-see destinations. But once wasn’t enough.
Like thousands of others, I fell in love with Savannah’s beauty, laid-back gentility and quirks. I’m determined to go back soon, especially in fall or spring when the area’s semitropical climate is at its best, with temperatures in the high 60s.

IF YOU GO

HISTORIC DISTRICT, SAVANNAH, GA.

GETTING YOUR BEARINGS: Old Town Trolley Tours offers a 90-minute overview ride, with narration, of prime sights in the historic district. Passengers can hop on and off at 17 stops from 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily. Cost: $23 adults; $10 children; (912) 233-0083.

GETTING AROUND: The Chatham Area Transit (CAT) system runs a free shuttle that makes a continuous loop through the historic district during the day seven days a week; (912) 233-5767.
LODGING: The Planters Inn, on the corner of Reynolds Square, has 60 rooms in a restored 19th-century mansion. Room rates for two start at $149, including a large buffet breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese; (800) 554-1187.

GUIDE BOOKS: “The Insiders’ Guide to Savannah and Hilton Head,” by Rich Wittish and Betty Darby (The Globe Pequot Press, $18.95), is written by local residents who know Savannah like the backs of their hands. It has comprehensive information on attractions, restaurants, hotels, shopping, sports and day trips.

“Hidden Georgia,” by Marty Olmstead (Ulysses Press, $16.95), is a thorough guide to mainstream and lesser-known sights, lodgings and restaurants throughout the state, with an insightful chapter on Savannah.

INFO: Call the Savannah Area Convention & Visitors Bureau at (877) SAVANNAH (728-2662).

Courtesy of Asbury Park Press
BY VICTOR ZAK
TRAVEL EDITOR